Friday, June 01, 2012

Siddeshwara Betta, Kuppalli and Jogi Gundi

The occasion was my colleague Kishan's wedding, made this as an opportunity to spend some time around one of the most beautiful forests in the world. Myself, Zaheer and Puneet boarded the sleeper coach bus from Indiranagar and picked up Rohit at Rajajinagar on our way to Thirtahalli.  After a good night's sleep in the bus we landed in Thirtahalli around 5am in the morning. We called up Kishan's brother who came to receive us in the bus stop and arranged an auto and took us to the Guest House. Zaheer went to bed to get some extra sleep, however myself, puneet and rohit after freshening ourselves went to explore a small peak in front of the guest house called Siddeshwara Betta.


It was an early morning walk on the rocky peak, a small peak which took around 30-40min to reach and was very pleasant to walk in the morning very different from the walks in Bangalore. On top of the peak, one can get a complete view of the valley along the Tunga River in the Thirtahalli town. We sat there admiring the beauty of the place but felt bad to see lot of smaller rocky mountains in and around being  exploited in the name of mining/development. I am sure this is illegal mining, the most surprising factor was that a few years back, i had read that all kind of mining was stopped in the ecologically sensitive western ghats area but was surprised to see it still happening probably at a slower and smaller scale.


The descent from the peak was very easy and just took around 15-20min to come down after which all of us were very hungry and went into a small local restaurant to try out some local cuisine. It was amazing food mangalooru buns/ neeru dose with some spicy kai chatni. We went back to the guest house after the food and freshened up for the wedding.


Kishan's cousin picked us up for the wedding venue around 9:30am. After having a second round of breakfast at the wedding place we took a walk along the river Tunga and got to spot a couple of Keel back snakes. No wonder you get to see so many stone idols of snake gods all along Westren ghats. At times i feel our ancestors were way smarter than us, they marked these places as sacred and all the natural habitats of snakes were marked with these stone idols of snakes probably as a warning as well as a note not to harm them by linking it with god as the fear of god keeps humans away. But its funny to see the modern man who kills snakes and then cleans up these natural habitat for snakes and builds a huge temple for these snakes.

After wishing Kishan and then having a heavy lunch took a cab to explore some near by places. The first one to visit was "Chibbalagude" which has a Siddhivinayaka Temple on the banks of Tunga river with huge fishes. One can feed these fishes with some nominal fees of Rs10 per plate of rice, however fishing is banned in this place. This place looks very similar to the one you get to see in Sringeri.




From here we went to Kuppalli to visit the house of the great Kannada Poet Kuvempu. Was in instant love with the house, it was the dream house i had imagined as how my house would be. After spending some time looking around the house and all the collections which is now kind of a museum dedicated to the poet we headed towards Agumbe. Probably this was one of the worst period to visit Agumbe. I had never heard of water sources depleting in these parts, it receives one of the highest rainfalls in the world but looks like now things are changing. We went to Jogi gundi and I was surprised there was no water in the water falls. Then we went to the over crowded sunset spot at Agumbe. Even though this is a beautiful place it has been badly littered and i would avoid it for my own reasons. 

We headed back to Thirtahalli and took a bus back to Bangalore at around 10pm. It was a quick 1day trip and was fun with friends and also a welcome break.

Sunday, April 01, 2012

Trekking Memories

These videos are dedicated to all my wonderful friends who have been part of my life. Time and again I spend time looking into these videos which I had prepared around 2years back. Its nice that we are still in touch and we are still going to lots of treks. Some of my friends have become my extended family, I can't imagine my world without you guys thanks for all you have given me in life. I have learnt a lot of things from many of you guys. Hope we live rest of our life with the same spirit of joy and happiness. Hope we enjoy lot more trip and treks in future as well.


Wednesday, February 08, 2012

Venkatagiri and Arebetta

After postponing for almost a month I decided to go ahead with the trek with a small group. It was just 3 of us (Poorna, Diwi and Prabanjan) and it turned out to be one of the best trek in terms of mystic silence inside the forest, distance covered and toughness and best of all highly economical - it costed us just around Rs. 1100/head. One day before the scheduled day of start we booked the last seats available, preparing ourselves for the bumpy ride for both to and fro journey by KSRTC. The bus was supposed to arrive at platform 11 but then the bus kept waiting for us at platform 14, the conductor told that he made repeated announcements for us which we never heard! Luckily we managed to catch the bus on time. Fun started right from the bus itself with a person sitting behind completely drunk playing music on loud speaker on his phone.



We got down at Gundya at 5 in the morning and started walking towards the IB which is around half km from Gundya checkpost (immediately next to the bridge across Kempu hole on the Kukke Subramanya road). After talking to Jagadish the care taker we freshened up at IB. By 7 we were ready for the trek and had a heavy break fast prepared by Jagadish. By 8 our guide Jayanna had come and we started with the trek to Venkatagiri. Initially the plan was to trek to Venkatagiri and then camp at Arebetta railway station, following day trek to Arebetta and then back to IB.



A small team has a lot of advantages - its quite and quick. We were walking very fast through the forest which didn't have any trail after a certain point. Jayanna our guide was quite surprised by our speed with all the luggage we carried. A couple of times he kept insisting we can leave our bags here and collect it while heading back, but what is the fun of trekking without the heavy bags. The best part of the trek was that it gave a panoramic view of the entire valley, vehicles moving on the Shiradi ghat, trains moving on the scenic Sakleshpur - Mangalore railway track, Kempu hole river flowing along the entire forest range and other peaks like Mugilagiri, MethiKallu, Aramane gudde.



We reached the peak of Venkatagiri by around 10.30am with lots of time in hand for the day. We didn't even feel like we trekked. There was no strain, no sweating or tiredness. We sat on the peak watching the entire valley for few minutes and after that we made changes to our plan. Arebetta was right in front of us. We planned to head towards Arebetta and camp in Arebetta railway station and then cover Kannikayana gundi water falls the next day. 




The trek from Venkatagiri to Arebetta was a bit difficult. Sun had come out completely and it was burning hot. We were running out of our water resources. With no trail and high dry elephant grass cutting my hands/legs acting like blades it was very difficult to walk on the tough terrain. We didn't want to hurry up going to Arebetta and started spending time around the forest taking breaks in order to avoid getting exposed to Sun in the peak. We reached Arebetta peak by around 1:30 - 2. After spending some time on the peak we decided to take an exciting, new and a never tested route to Gang6 shed directly below the Arebetta peak. Looking at our fitness our guide Jayanna agreed to take that risk and we started the direct descend below the Arebetta through the thick forest.



This descend was very slippery and with huge rocks and caves the habitat looked perfect for Tiger/Leopard/Bear. The descend was very steep probably around 70degree inclination to walk. Diwi's  floaters couldn't handle the pressure any more and gave up. We tied shoe lace to his floaters so that he could walk. Also my shoe sole gave up and every sharp rock would enter my shoe and hurt my foot. Diwi was struggling to walk with his renovated floaters, adding to this, he got cramps in his legs.



During this tough walk through the thick forest we had to change our route a couple of times as we just landed in a dead end beyond which there was huge drop. We reached a water source, a thin stream of water around 4 in the evening. After filling our water bottles we could hear a train passing near by. By now we were clear we are very near to the railway track and within 5-10min we reached the railway track and Gang6 shed. This was one of the best descend I have tried for a long long time. After taking some rest we decided to spend the night in the open shed next to the line men's shed. We initially thought line men would provide us some food but then at around 8 we realized that they didn't have any plans of cooking for us. Diwi and Prabanjan wanted to walk towards Gundya on the railway track but then I was reluctant to walk in the night and strongly opposed it and finally we decided to stay hungry and sleep. In a way it was a good decision, probably if we had reached IB during the night we might not have slept the whole night due to high police activity due to death of a student from BMS.



All of us were tired and slept off very soon, Prabanjan forgot to get his sleeping bag and probably was feeling a bit cold. Early morning around 4 probably I heard warning calls from Sambar deer very close to the shed, after reading a book on man eating leopards very recently I was a bit scared. Next day morning we started very early around 6:30 on the railway track which we had left half finished 2 months back. I was also happy that we completed the unfinished railway track trek during this trek. By 8 we were in IB. But then I was really sad to hear the news of a missing boy in Ombattu gudda range. We were advised not to go towards Kannikayanagundi Waterfalls due to tension from police and forest officials. We decided to spend time around Kempuhole river taking bath and roaming around. By afternoon I saw a jeep with around 8 trekkers being arrested by the forest officers. It was that time we decided to leave IB and head towards Kukke.



Venkatagiri and Arebetta is an average trek during winter/summer with limited or no water supplies, but very difficult and dangerous trek during rains. There are no trails and it is easy to get lost in the wild. One tip from me is have a sense of railway track below the hill, if you can manage to hit railway track then you are safe. Don't enter without a local guide or GPS. Be careful about the wild animals. If you are not a serious trekker don't try it. We missed satellite signal deep inside the forest so the trek trail is not complete.



Route: Bangalore - Hassan - Sakleshpur - Gundya - Take a left from Gundya and cross the bridge across Kempu hole to enter Forest IB towards your right.
Contact Person: Devappa - M.no. 9449902125. Guide: Jayanna . Don't forget to take permission from forest department.


Venkatagiriandarebetta


EveryTrail - Find trail maps for California and beyond

Monday, February 06, 2012

Trekking - Passion, Risk

I felt really bad hearing to the news of Naveen from BMS college who along with his friends 10 boys and 4 girls ventured into Ombattu Gudda. I just saw in TV that they have fished out Naveen's body from the water. I am not sure if these students really knew where they were going or what they were up to when they where heading towards Ombattu Gudda. I had been to this place in 2009 and I was in instant love with this place but then I had realized that any one who would venture in here without a local guide or GPS or a good understanding of forest and maps would land in trouble. It was a unique kind of forest, felt like it was full of secrets, it was lot more different and mysterious from most of my other treks. Let me tell you Trekking is a passion and it has lots of risks some of them are life threatening. I have met different kinds of people during my treks who venture into forest and think it to be a picnic some of the bad things I have observed during my trips

1) Having Liquor and worse getting into water after that
2) Smoking in dry forest
3) Camp firing and partying with loud music
4) Cutting small trees/plants on mountain tops for camp fire
5) Listening to music while trekking ignoring the forest activity or warning calls
6) Swimming in unknown waters
7) Not planning for the night
8) Getting into forest without torch
9) Limited or no water/food supplies
10) Not being serious 
11) Not moving in groups
12) Not carrying first aid kit
13) No GPS or not taking the help of locals

Please take a note, please don't enter forests for partying. Forests are not the place for such activity. I was in Kukke Subramanya yesterday and saw some of these students waiting for their friend, I can only wish for his sole to rest in peace. If you don't realize the threats of nature in here you will land in nature's lap pretty soon. I was seeing police struggling to even get into the place where this mishap happened forget about helping. Locals do a great job during such operations and hats off to them for knowing their backyard so well.
Trekking has lots of risk involved, Trek with passion and not for fun. Trek safe, take care.

Thursday, January 26, 2012

Multnomah Falls - Portland

I don't know how I missed publishing some of these pictures I took probably an year back during my trip to US during the Fall. Two things I regret before I publish my pics are these pics can never make justification for the beauty of the place as I was not even aware of how to use my SLR properly and the second it kept raining most of the time and with low lighting pics were not the kind I wanted.




It was around half an hour drive from my hotel, I remember it was a lousy day started raining right from the morning but it was even more depressing to sit in room watching TV. Also it gets really cold during these seasons and with having just one jacket during the trip it would be worse to get it wet in rain and suffer at least 2-3 days going out or to office.



I picked up Deepak and Karthik headed towards Multnomah falls after our breakfast the drive along the river was amazing but unlike India I really missed stopping my car at all the places I wanted to. Some of these roads on the mountains were kind of 2 lanes and we are not suppose to stop cars at non designated areas. But the forest area during the fall was filled with vibrant colors and the cool form of purest oxygen entering your lungs can only experienced rather than expressed over a blog.





There was a hiking trail till the top of the water fall, it was still continuing into the forest but as it started drizzling we didn't take the risk of getting ourselves drenched in the cold weather. But it was surprising to see, from above it is just a small stream inside a forest but when it falls down it does look spectacular. 





If ever I get opportunity to travel again during Fall I promise to get some better pictures to give you a feel of the beauty surrounding this place.


Monday, January 02, 2012

Bandipur - Madumalai

Like every year I had shutdown break from office during the last week of December. I thought of taking a break and spend some time relaxing at home rather than travelling, which is hardly the case with me when I am holidaying. Also after a couple of trips during the last week of December I don't feel good travelling,with tourists flooding to almost all places and spoiling the beauty by not being sensible enough, and also it's very expensive.  I did however spend some time exploring some places around Mysore.



I wanted to do some birding and also some photography early morning at Himavad Gopalswamy betta and started around 5am from Mysore not knowing that now the entry at the check post is restricted between 8:30am to 4:30pm only. What a waste, I felt the beauty of this place can only be enjoyed either early in the morning or in the evening. Only reason for this restriction I could think off was the temple attracts lots of people and this temple being inside the protected area there is a high possibility of human - animal face off. Also since this comes under elephant corridor with large herds of elephants being observed consistently.
Being so early to the spot I didn't wanted to waste my time till 8:30 and started driving towards Bandipur national park giving Himavad Gopalswamy betta a miss. I was there at Bandipur national park at around 7:45. Cost per head is Rs300 for a safari. You can also contact the forest office in Mysore if you want to stay here.



After being to so many safaris across different places, going for a safari in this government vehicle which is in fact a  bus is not worth especially if you are interested in photography. Reason I can think of is you will not find a passionate crowd who respect and understand where they are and what is expected out of them. I think it was inefficiency also from the forest department team not to educate the crowd of what is expected once inside the forest before the safari starts. Rather than a safari trying to hear the warning calls or calls of birds this was just a bumpy ride for an hour with idiotic people passing stupid comments sitting next to you. I felt even though jungle lodges are very expensive at least the safari's are worth.



After wasting my money on the safari, I started driving towards Ooty. I felt after Bandipur area, which extends to Madumalai forest from where Tamilnadu starts they have created nice buffer zones so that you might be lucky to watch wildlife while driving on road. Even though I enjoyed the drive till Ooty a lot, I would say Ooty was very disappointing. Probably one of the worst tourist place I have visited for a long long time. Was totally over crowded, very badly maintained with plastics and garbage every where. The thought just came to my mind that such a beautiful place how it would have been maintained if it was outside India. However there might be some resorts or home stays which might be exception, but then downtown a definite no.



I took a different route which is a bit far but then lot more scenic while returning back. Got to drive around lots of tea estates and also lots of Nilgiri plantations. It was perfect drive which I enjoyed the most. Spent lots of time driving around Madumalai and also Bandipur. Of all odds was hoping for a luck, so that I get to see a tiger cross the road, but even after spending the entire evening my luck ran out. The evening lighting was perfect for photo shooting as well. However like always was very disappointing with the way people behave inside a national park. Things I observed and which was very irritating was 
a) Driving at high speeds inside the national park
b) Honking badly even when they see some animals around and scare them out.
c) Getting down from vehicle to photograph wild animals like elephants
d) Using flash in their camera while photographing wild animals
e) Throwing garbage/plastics out of their vehicles inside the protected area
f) Feeding wild animals like langoors/monkeys
g) Getting down from vehicle and having a family picnic by having food and throwing out the waste inside the forest.




I find lots of boards from forest department warning about these above mentioned points probably we need lot more stricter enforcement. 

Contact Details: If you are interested in staying in Bandipur at Government guest house contact
The Chief Conservator of Forests
Project Tiger
Aranya Bhavan, Ahokapuram
Mysore - 570008
ph: 0821 - 2480902
Room rent is around 1000 to 1500Rs for Indian nationals. They also have Dormitory for 10 and 20 beds with Rs750 and Rs1500 respectively.